We’re up at the crack of dawn, or what passes for the crack of dawn for us: 7:30. The sun is a much earlier riser than we are, and we have no qualm about it, nor do we wish to compete with it. At some point in our old age, Karine and I stopped being morning people and enjoy sleeping late, if you haven’t guessed by now.
Still, the cool air and the sun not yet turning the trail into an oven was motivation enough for us to get underway early. The plan is simple enough. Walking from Monterosso to Manarola. The traditional trail runs from Monterosso to Riomaggiore, but the route from Manarola to Riomaggiore collapsed in 2012 and has yet to reopen.
With three villages to go, we set out to cover the eight kilometres between Monterosso and Corniglia. It took us a little under two and a half hours. Our original plan was to have lunch at the Cantina de Mananan, but even after we waited almost an hour past its official opening time (12:30), no one greeted us, and the door was firmly closed. Not wanting to research further, and the town being mostly dedicated to serving tourists, we went next door for a quick plate of pasta and a glass of sparkling water.
With our bellies full, we headed for the last leg of the hike: Corniglia to Manarola. The trail, originally the alpine variant, now the only trail remaining (thank you, landslide), is six kilometres long and a total climb of 300m (from 70m to 370m at peak). With all of the climbing in the first 2.5km. Nothing too hard and in the same ballpark as what took us to Corniglia (8km with 480m total in elevation gain between 10m and 200m).
Now, why do the trail at all? If it requires getting up early, walking for much of the day, and playing dice with the food you’ll have for lunch, why do it all? One could easily find a chair and an umbrella at the beach, sit one’s ass down, read a good book, get in the water for a couple of laps every 45 minutes to an hour and order drinks when thirsty and order food when hungry. Why do a 14km hike with the 780m of elevation gain?
The views! The incredible views you get walking on cliff sides with beautiful vines growing in multiple steps in front and side of you, the Mediterranean sea with its clear blue water on the other. It’s also a great way to enjoy the fantastic 27°C weather and the clear skies that are common this time of year. It makes the hike warm enough to enjoy, but not so warm you feel like you’re slow-cooking your own organs for dinner tonight. On top of that, there’s the endorphin high you get from the prolonged physical activity that will keep you smiling like an idiot all the way to the Apero, at which point a strong lemon spritz will keep you smiling until well after dinner. If none of those reasons are enough, consider that you’ve been eating pizza, pasta, and steak with likely reasonable amounts of wine and cheese, and that spending the approximately 1400 calories the hike will require can do nothing but help balance the 2000-calorie meal you’re likely having for dinner.
Hike done, we stopped by our apartment to do a load of laundry (we won’t be able to do any for the next couple of days), shower, and process our numerous pictures of the trail (about 500 when you put Karine’s and my photos together). It’s also a great excuse to delay the gelato and the day drinking until at least 18:30. With our dinner reservation being at 20:00 (early in the Italian world), we need to pace ourselves.
Gelato at Gelateria Artigianale Slurp was decent but not remarkable. Delicious Lemon Spritz at Enoteca Da Eliseo, headed our way, ready for dinner at our favourite restaurant in Monterosso: The Ciak.
For all its many fine qualities, the Ciak has no reservation system. To get in, email them a couple of weeks in advance. If you don’t have a reservation, you’re likely to be turned away. The same lack of system shows when you arrive at the appointed time of your reservation. Instead of a host or hostess showing you to your table, you essentially have to fish around the empty tables for a piece of paper with your name on it. Also, be warned: it is an efficient operation. They get to the point and will deliver your order as quickly as possible. From my observations, I don’t think they're being rude; it’s a case of a small number of waiters trying to serve a large number of tables (some of which are actually across the street). The food is well executed, and you'll get exactly what you’ve ordered. In our world, efficiency is king, and so is it for the Ciak’s crew.
Thank you for reading this log. Now for a public service announcement: keep track of your damn mask and stop leaving them on the ground like so many cigarette butts, which you shouldn't go on the ground anyway. It’s disgusting, it’s bad for the environment, and frankly, it pisses me off to think that something with an elastic band that most people wrap around their elbow can be lost so easily and with such profusion. What's wrong with you people?!