It had to happen, after all we’ve spent almost an entire month in another country. We finally ran into a cold spell. Strong winds from the northeast swept across the region, bringing cold air with them. Instead of getting highs in the high twenties or low thirties like we’ve had so far on the trip, today and tomorrow, we’re getting lows around 12°C and highs of 21°C. In April, we would be partying with that kind of temperature, but after a month above 30°C, we’re positively freezing. Returning home on Sunday will feel like winter has come.
Yesterday I managed to injure myself. Our apartment has all-ceramic floors and a couple of steps, one of which is hard to see. I missed the step on the way down and managed to hurt my foot on the way down (landing on the point of my toes, then tripping). Managed to get a big bruise on top of my foot and a swollen toe. Nothing broken, but it makes walking uncomfortable; every step compresses the bruise on my toe and the top of my foot. It’s like my footwear is trying to check my bruise still hurts every time I flex my toes.
The minor injury changed the plans somewhat. Instead of a full day of hiking in the Foresta Umbra, we had to settle for a six-kilometre, mostly flat hike. The forest of shadows, a thousand-year-old forest at just under 800 meters of altitude, is a gorgeous forest of tall trees draped in lush green vines. They give the forest its well-deserved name, as much of the floor is in the shade, with the occasional sunray peeking through, making the shadows dance when the wind blows. The trails are expertly maintained, well-marked and a pleasure to walk on. It’s no surprise the site is on the shortlist for UNESCO World Heritage status. The hour-long hike was most enjoyable and relaxing—a great way to top up the battery before heading back.
A shorter hike also allowed us to explore Vieste after breakfast. We had low expectations after visiting so many southern towns, but Vieste, built on a small hill, is charming. Small alleys and staircases everywhere give it charm. The architecture is nothing new, but the arrangement of the house, stairs and alley in the old part of the city makes it different enough to be charming. They also have a cat commune (like in Lecce), so bonus points.
Our meandering allowed us to stop by the Osteria Al Duomo to reserve for the evening. Recommended by the Routard and located in the middle of the old city, it made it the perfect spot for our evening meal. Without being over the top, they offered well-crafted Italian classics that made for an enjoyable evening.
