Starting the day with a Continental Breakfast is best when expectations are low. For this particular spread, it begins with mostly classical Italian with its jelly-filled croissant and cakes (swirl, angel); everything the growing Italian needs to accompany his or her morning cappuccino. Then comes the American section: tucked next to the pastries is the classic conveyor-belt toaster, barely able to warm bread in its basket of white and wheat slices. It’s followed by the North American classics: watery scrambled eggs, dried bacon and breakfast sausage, cut melons, slowly warming yogurt (all plain, of course) with a side of milk and dull cereals that are supposed to be good for you. Hidden in all that drab American breakfast buffet that no self-respecting Italian should make or put out anywhere, they’ve managed to hide gems! Burrata, Ricotta and Mozzarella balls, all fresh in liquid, ready to brighten any morning meal. Jackpot.
We’re not exactly taking the scenic route to Vieste, but it's not direct either. First stop is Trani for coffee, then a walk through its old town and Villa Comunale. Trani might be known for the Basilica Cattedrale San Nicola Pellegrino, a large blocky stone construction, but the Villa Comunale is more fun. It is, of course, a large communal park and offers a fantastic sea view but also a monk parakeet colony and a fountain with turtle tenants. Although the cathedral offers a sea view from its porch, I’ve yet to meet any church with parakeets or turtles.
Near Trani (thirty kilometres), we found Castel del Monte—a 13th-century castle built on top of a hill in the middle of fields. There’s no record of why that castle was built. Based on the view, I’m guessing somebody very rich and influential decided to get a house with a view, and a cottage wouldn’t do. It turned into a beautiful castle, the kind you think of in medieval stories. The current pandemic has introduced complex rules for visiting that aren’t posted anywhere. It turns out they let a small number of people every hour on the hour. Sadly, we arrived too late to get in for a visit.
We arrived in Vieste in late afternoon and took full advantage of the washing machine and terrace. One is necessary for day drinking and logging, and the other is an excellent excuse for the former. At the same time, Vieste seems a perfectly lovely town. As we’ve settled in a small apartment about 20 minutes' walk from the city, we’ve planned to visit it tomorrow. Dinner at Ristorante Acqua, a restaurant that defines itself by its care in crafting unique combinations of dishes like oysters in white chocolate, left us with a good first impression of the town. Also, did we mention the beach is across the street from us?
