We got up early today. It wasn’t so much because we had to go hiking, but because we had to get a car rental, go hiking and get back in the city and parked, ideally before sunset.
We started the day at 📍Tamp & Steam, a specialty coffee shop that really cares about doing a good job. We each took a flat white, a scrambled egg and “bacon” sandwich and a cookie (Karine went Nutella, I went chocolate chip). Everything was good and filling. The coffee was especially well made.
From breakfast we headed to the airport to get a car. Contrary to Avis at in Heraklion, the Larnaca Airport Avis was supper efficient. No shuttle, no waiting. Get everything signed, head up the stairs and across the road to the kiosk, get your keys and you’re done. As I’ll be driving on the opposite side of the road than I’m used, to I went for an automatic car. I don’t want to remember to try and shift with my left hand while remembering which lane I’m aiming for when taking a turn.
Car picked up, we drove about an hour east to Konnos Beach where the Cape Greco park loop trail begins for us. I’ve specified that’s our start of the trail as we’ve quickly learned, once on the trail, that this trail runs from parking lot to parking lot with about 1.5 km between each.
The first stop on the trail was the Ayioi Anargiroi Church, built almost at the edge of the cape. It has a staircase to go down to the water where the more nautically enthusiast can go swim or, if they’re also a bit of a dare devil, jump from the top of the cliff straight into the water. It’s also home to a trio of cats that were surprisingly well fed for such an out of the way place. Also, don’t forget the parking.
From there we kept going to the Crow's Arch – a small arch that spans over a very narrow creek. The park people seem very stressed that people would walk over the arc with signage and not one but two sets of barriers around it. Nothing is ever big enough to discourage anybody with enough insouciance to walk across a naturally eroded bridge of rocks. It comes with its inevitable parking and food truck. We wouldn’t want anybody to starve while taking pictures of a rock formation after all.
We kept going and the similar experience repeated itself for the cave and tunnel dive site, the monument of peace at the summit of the cape and the sea cave walk (you can follow a rope down and walk along the sea cave). The hike itself, when between parking lots and food trucks, was pleasant if not in a wild gorge or far from people. We took beautiful pictures, most of them while away from the different stops along the trail. Overall we give this trail a “good but not great rating”.
We drove back without much issue. We worked at remembering what’s a small turn (not cutting oncoming lanes) and a large turn (you’re turning accross oncoming traffic) and fight against our ingrained reflexes to be on the other side of the road. The part that got adventurous was when we got into the city. The small and large turn issue disappears as most streets seem to be one way. Navigating a city that has many, many closed streets while trying to make it to a public parking was challenging. That’s also where we were reminded of what we learned the previous day: if the location of where you’re trying to go is not right next to a street, Google Map and Waze will navigate you to the street that’s the closest to your desired location, not its entrance. We had to roam randomly finding not one or two but three coin-operated parking in less than 300 meters. We, of course, didn’t have any coin. We arrived at our Airbnb parking spot through no skills or plans but simply navigating around closed streets. We parked there and hoped the way out won’t be too perilous as we’re in the middle of construction alley.
We showered, unpacked our hiking bags and then headed out for a snack and glass of wine at 📍Secret Garden. We loved the location and service that really took care of managing my food allergies. One glass turned into two. With two full days in and a couple of tests we can also confirm that rosé from Cyprus are good. Also, the wine glasses at Secret Garden are 250ml each so by the end of the second glass we were done with wine for the day. We usually order 500ml with dinner to share between the two of us, and had 500ml each this time. We might have had a bit too much. Not drunk but not sober either.
We went straight to 📍Valtou Rigani. Our research pointed us to it for its meat. They did an OK job but nothing extraordinary. They were also understaffed so it might have contributed to the average service experience. Their biggest saving grace were the three cats that made the rounds and one who figured that if they were patient enough Karine would provide meat. It was a very transactional relationship, like with all restaurant cats, with the cat leaving as soon as we had no more meat to offer. We enjoyed the company.
Tomorrow we’re driving north to Nicosia. We have to bring our passport as the city is split between the Turkish portion of the island and Cyprus. More on the next log.
Places
Tamp & Steam Specialty Coffee · Larnaca
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Cape Greco National Park Loop, Αμμόχωστος, Cyprus - 356 Reviews, Map | AllTrails
Around Cape Greco National Park (Γύρος του Εθνικού Πάρκου Κάβο Γκρέκο) A circular route in Cape Greco National Park, which starts north and runs along the east coast, following part of the European Trail E4, to the south. The lacy shore, the sea caves, the natural rock bridge, the blue holes, the blue lagoon and the beauty of the landscape create all the conditions of a very beautiful hike. There are also several hiking trails available and easily accessible. The views are absolutely stunning and spectacular. The return is from the west to the north and the starting point.
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Secret Garden Wine & Coffee Bar · Larnaca
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Valtou Rigani - Souvlakopolio (Larnaca) · Larnaca
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